I have been in Madrid for five weeks, and I oscillate between thinking that I more or less understand this teeming metropolis and finding cultural surprises around every corner. For now, I’m content in this in-between space, wandering around and observing as much as I can. Regardless of how much or how little I actually understand – and who can say? – I do know one thing: Madrileños know how to enjoy life. And so, fortified by my señora’s encouragement, I fall into the rhythm and do the same.