Observing Ramadan Abroad

While studying abroad is a life-changing privilege, it doesn’t come without sacrifice. The biggest, for me, was knowing that I’d miss out on events at home with my family––especially Ramadan, the holy month in which Muslims abstain from food and drink during daylight hours.

Thankfully, everyone in my program was super accommodating! On days when I had class during Maghreb, I would simply pack a snack or a small sandwich to break my fast with as I took notes. The staff at my residence hall––one of whom was also observing Ramadan––were kind enough to bring meals up to my room beyond regular dining hours. If I couldn’t pick up lunch in my residence hall, it was easy to find cheap and filling food at the nearest grocery store.

Overall, I’ve had no trouble finding food options abroad. My biggest challenge was mental; homesickness hits way harder during a holiday, when you can’t be with friends and family to celebrate. Back home, Ramadan was a month of nonstop festivities: Iftar parties, suhoor festivals, and late nights chatting with my relatives over tea. While I observed my first Ramadan away from home last year, during my second semester of college, I knew it would be even more difficult abroad because I couldn’t simply drive home on the weekend to be with my family. Despite that, I was determined to observe the holy month and find my own ways to celebrate, no matter how small.

The first day of Ramadan, I bought a bunch of new snacks I’d never tried before, hiked up to the Mirador de San Miguel Alto, and listened to my favorite nostalgic Arabic songs while waiting for sunset. Being surrounded by laughter and music reminded me just a little bit of home.

As a foreigner, I knew it would take conscious effort to meet people and build my own community from scratch. One way I did this was by approaching fellow Muslims in between my UGR class to wish them a Ramadan Mubarak and ask about local events. As an introvert, this was incredibly daunting, but taking that first step has allowed me to meet so many wonderful people, learn more about Granada, and get iftar invitations to some amazing Middle Eastern restaurants. Even just grabbing a to-go pizza with some friends on the walk home can provide a memorable breakfast full of laughter and scenic views.

Despite a history of subjugation and conquest, Granada’s Muslim population remains strong, large, and yet intimate. On free evenings, I went to La Mezquita Mayor de Granada to pray Maghreb, a beautiful mosque situated in the heart of Albaicín. The mosque generously provides complimentary dates, milk, and water to break fast with prior to the prayer service. Going early provides a great opportunity to meet new people, as everyone is so incredibly kind and welcoming! Afterward, on the walk home, I could snap a picture of the Alhambra at twilight and listen to live music at San Nicolás.

Although I did a lot of traveling during Ramadan, I ultimately decided to stay in Granada the weekend of Eid al-Fitr, the day of celebration that marks the end of the fasting period. Initially, I was hesitant to stay, hoping that I could distract myself from memories of home with travel. In the end, though, I had a great time attending Eid celebrations all over the city! The night before Eid, a classmate told me about a henna night hosted by Fika Coffee Shop. I had a great time drinking coffee, meeting other Muslim women, and, of course, sitting down for a beautiful henna tattoo.

The next day, La Mezquita Mayor hosted an Eid prayer at nine in the morning. The mosque was so packed, most of us ended up praying in the garden. At the end, friends embraced each other and families gathered for pictures, just as I used to do at home. Although it was lonely being a foreigner in such a tight-knit community, I ended up running into some classmates and getting invited to a delicious homemade lunch later that day!

Overall, observing Ramadan abroad turned out to be a great experience, despite my initial reservations. Not only was it an opportunity for new connections, but it provided moments of solitude in which I could reflect on my faith. Being in a new country, constantly surrounded by new people and new stimuli, I absolutely needed those critical moments of meditation where I sat out in the sun instead of going to lunch or grabbing another coffee with friends. Through this experience, I’ve learned that I have a much greater capacity to meet people and branch out than I previously thought––and am simultaneously much more capable of being on my own.