A little over a month ago, I arrived in Milan and, as promised to myself, have made every effort to discover its reality. So far, I have enjoyed the spontaneity of randomly finding the Castillo Sforzesco as I stepped out of Cairoli Station, purchasing jewelry or jackets in the streets by the Pinacoteca di Brera, and getting gelato when my heart desires. But, to truthfully and wholeheartedly immerse myself in the culture, I began following the steps of the Milanese and, in their shoes, embarked on a culinary adventure.  

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My host dad, Manuel, has his very own food blog featuring his many delicious dishes and their recipes. He can taste when there is too much yeast in a loaf of bread or too little air in a tiramisu. My palette is not as sophisticated. However, when he began to recommend places to eat, I, of course, took note of every single one. 

Dinners with Italian families, mine and those of my homestay friends, begin with affettati (prosciutto, salame, cheese). We eat some form of pasta which, at times, is followed by yet another plate of meat and potatoes. Bits of cheese and then dessert end our meal. But, it seems that, even after these mountains of food, the main talk of the table is still food. We speak of our recent good eats and upcoming meals, recipes we wish to recreate, and i cibi we cannot stop thinking about. 

Class breaks, office hours, and advisor meetings are often followed by (*cough cough* for) gathering advice on restaurants to try. 

There is no excitement quite like the eagerness for the good food you are guaranteed to have. 

So, when in Milan, with the desire to explore in the shoes of its locals, here is my list of must-eats!

BREAKFAST and PASTRIES and COFFEE

Princi: Classic Milanese bakery that is found anywhere in the city. My go-to for a sweet treat and study time. 

• Recommendations: Focaccia con mortadella e burrata, Tiramisu basket (basically a whole tiramisu inside a round-shaped croissant), Cappuccino
• Location: Anywhere in Milan, but I recommend the spot in Brera. Via Ponte Vetero, 10, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
• Price: ~3-10€

Pasticceria Sissi: Another delicious bakery and a great host for students amidst midterm season who could use its charming outside seating area as a study spot. 

• Recommendations: Brioche normale (butter croissant), cappuccino, toast (which in Italy means a grilled cheese with ham).
• Location: P.za Risorgimento, 6, 20129 Milano MI
• Price: ~2-10€ 

Gelsomina: Yet another cute café with big coffee sizes and amazing, cream-filled pastries. 

• Recommendations: Maritozzi (a pastry with loads of whipped cream over a layer of chocolate or pistacchio spread, depending on what flavor you pick)
• Location: Via Carlo Tenca, 5, 20124 Milano MI 
• Price: ~5-10€ 

LUNCH and SMALL BITES

Luini: A historical landmark, they have been selling the classic panzerotto for the past 70 years. 

• Recommendations: Panzerotto al forno con mozzarella e pomodoro (folded pizza dough with gooey cheese and tomato sauce) 
• Location: Via Santa Radegonda, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: ~3€

Trapizzino: Triangle shaped sandwich made up of pizza dough and traditional Italian fillings.

• Recommendations: Trapizzino polpette al sugo (with a large meatball and tomato sauce), Supplì tortellino (fried rice croquettes with cheese) 
• Location: I recommend the location near Wagner station. Via Marghera, 12, 20149 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: 2€ per supplì, 5€ per trapizzino 

Da Nonna: Cozy Italian classics just a 4 minute walk from the IES Center. 

• Recommendations: Lasagna and roasted potatoes (yes, get both at the same time)
• Location: Via Mosè Bianchi, 103, 20149 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: ~10-20€ 

Spontini: A large slice of pizza. Plenty of cheese and thick dough to suffice immediate hunger.

• Recommendations: Get a regular Margherita slice with no extra toppings. 
• Location: There is one almost anywhere in Milan, from Wagner to Duomo and beyond. 
• Price: ~5-6€

Saudade Brasil: Brazilian street food classics, for when you want something small and different. 

• Recommendations: Coxinha com catupiry (fried dough ball with chicken and cheese), Pastel de queijo (fried sheet of dough with cheese), Guaraná (sweet soft drink) 
• Location: P.za Risorgimento, 3, 20129 Milano MI
• Price: ~5-10€ 

MID-AFTERNOON TREATS

Trivè Time: A sweet twist to the classic Spritz and a side (food!) of your choice. The best aperitivo I have had. 

• Recommendations: Pink Spritz (not too sweet, strong, with a marshmallow garnash - none of that olive BS) 
• Location: Via Marghera, 47, 20149 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: ~10-15€ 

Crema: Charming gelato spot in my favorite Milan neighborhood, Brera. 

• Recommendations: Gianduia (hazelnutty chocolate), Crema e biscotto al cioccolato (cream, cookies, chocolate), Pistacchio di bronte 
• Location: Via Fiori Chiari, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
• Price: 4€ per due gusti (for two flavors) 

Gelateria Concordia: If you enjoy bits of cookies or whipped cream in your ice cream, this is it. 

• Recommendations: Cremino (a thick chocolate+hazelnut paste layer over cream gelato), Biscotto (bits of cookies in cream gelato), add panna (whipped cream)
• Location: Right next to Saudade Brasil. Corso Concordia, 11, 20129 Milano MI
• Price: ~4€ per due gusti (for two flavors) 

Mochimochi: So many kinds of mochi and daifuku at the heart of Chinatown. 

• Recommendations: Banana chocolate daifuku!!, mango mochi, matcha mochi
• Location: Via Paolo Sarpi, 12, 20154 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: ~2-5€ 

DINNER

Assaje: Traditional, doughy pizza. 

• Recommendations: Regina (mozzarella and parmigiano cheese, pieces of fresh tomato, basil), Margherita (it’s a classic for a reason) 
• Location: I recommend the one in Navigli. Via Casale, 5, 20144 Milano MI
• Price: ~10-20€

Salsamenteria di Parma: Homey, cozy pastas and other classic dishes. 

• Recommendations: Tagliatelle al ragu di manzo (long pasta with a meat sauce)
• Location: Via S. Pietro All'Orto, 9, 20121 Milano MI 
• Price: ~10-20€

Temakinho: Brazilian sushi restaurant. Traditionally Brazilian appetizers and classic sushi rolls with a South American kick

• Recommendations: Mandioquinha Frita (fried yucca with mayo), Camarão Abacate (shrimp with avocado), Salmão Com Camarão (salmon with shrimp) 
• Location: I recommend the location near Lanza station. Corso Garibaldi, 59, 20121 Milano MI, Italy 
• Price: ~11-14€ per roll

Ifu: All-you-can-eat sushi restaurant, that’s the only explanation you really need. 

• Recommendations: Burrata Roll (shrimp, avocado, burrata), Lobster Roll (with avocado and mayo), Tiger Roll (fried shrimp with salmon on top) 
• Location: Viale Misurata, 60, 20146 Milano MI, Italy
• Price: 35€ 

Taverna Amazonia: “Dinner and a show.” A not-so-Brazilian, but still worthy of mentioning place that offers mid-meal performances by professional samba dancers. 

• Recommendations: Save your money and go for the drinks (Caipirinha, lime-base cocktail), dessert (Mousse de maracujá, passion fruit mousse), and the experience
• Location: Via Edmondo de Amicis, 34, 20123 Milano MI 
• Price: ~5-20€ if you only go for drinks/dessert, 39+€ if you decide to eat the meat