Running Away from the City

Spending a day walking along the chalk cliffs of Seven Sisters is the kind of experience that lingers after the journey ends. Setting out solo, I began my trip on the train from London to Brighton to trade the city’s hum for the seaside waves. From Brighton, I took the Coaster Bus (12x) that carried me along the coast of Seaford. I immediately felt the atmosphere shift and turn slower, more quiet. 

I got off at the Seven Sisters Country Park Center and made my first stop at The Saltmarsh Farmhouse Cafe. I stopped in to grab a quick coffee but wished I had decided to have a meal there. The environment was lovely with all the visitors sitting both inside and outside the farmhouse to enjoy a nice meal. Before starting my hike, I stopped into the visitor center to grab a few souvenirs. Luckily, there were many postcards and magnets to choose from. 

The walk slowly began as I followed the path to and along the Cuckmere River. The waves were slow, contrasting with the restless wind as I neared Cuckmere Haven. From there, the landscape opened dramatically. The beach stretched out ahead, framed by the iconic white cliffs on one end and the Coastguard Cottages on the other. It was a moment where I instinctively paused because the views demanded all of my attention.

Continuing up and onto the cliffs, I passed through areas with monuments from the National Trust and eventually reached Birling Gap. This was a perfect place to pause, watching the waves crash as travelers and families walked the paths around me. There was something so peaceful about looking out onto the expanse of the ocean surrounded by the beautiful cliffs. The weather was constantly surprising, especially with the occasional sprinkle of rain. There were multiple shifts between sunny to windy to rainy, keeping the hiking experience very dynamic.

The stretch toward Beachy Head Lighthouse was one of my favorites. Alongside the coast, there are these vast and open fields where many wild ponies and horses roam. If you are lucky enough, they might even approach you and say hello. As I approached the cliffs edge, the red and white striped lighthouse stood in the water. The waves crashed around its bases as it held strong. The sun was setting now and I could not imagine how beautiful it would be to view it from the inside. The Beachy Head Pub offered a welcoming sight and was a great place to take a quick pause. 

Past Cow Gap and The Holy Well, my journey led me toward Eastbourne. By this point, the steady rhythm of walking, the sound of the whistling wind, and the endless horizon had created a calm that was difficult to recreate. I felt grounded after spending the day exploring this coastline. 

As I made my way into Eastbourne for some dinner and to catch the train back, I reflected on how perfectly the day had unfolded. The sunshine, wind and rain all played a part in the well-rounded, dynamic atmosphere of the dramatic journey. There was something so restorative about sitting quietly on those cliffs and looking out over the sea. On the way back to the city, I wished I had done this trip sooner.